Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Vorke V1 Plus Review

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Vorke V1 Plus Review

    VORKE V1 Plus Intel Apollo Lake J3455 4K@60hz 4G RAM 64GB SSD Windows MINI PC 802.11AC WIFI Gigabit LAN Wake-on LAN Bluetooth4.2 HDMI & VGA Output USB3.0



    Hi Guy's and Girls,This time we have another windows Mini PC to Review.The new Vorke V1 Plus from geekbuying


    Highlights (From webpage)

    Intel Apollo Lake J3455

    J3455 , a quad-core processor, operates between 1.5 and 2.3GHz. Under the hood, it packs 2MB of L2 cache, TDP of 10W and a Intel HD Graphics 500 GPU.

    DDR3 4GB RAM, 64GB SSD

    VORKE V1 Plus brags a 4GB DDR3 RAM and 64GB of SSD storage, advantageous in performance, security and reliability. Ascribing to the eMMC memory, it delivers a richer end-user experience.

    SSD Extendable, HDD 1TB.

    Gigabit LAN

    Gigabit LAN provides a data rate of 1 billion bits per second.

    Applications

    Office Work: Office, skype, yahoo, outlook and all other office requirement support and runs perfectly.
    Design Work: Photoshop, CoreIDRAW, Dreamweaver, IIIustrator, Flash, Indesign and others.
    Game Playing: Support most of the online games and PC games, like Warcraft, Counter-Strike (CS), support 3D games.
    Entertainment: Support 4k@60Hz video play, XBMC and others.

    Some Internal photos

    SSD Cover Removed



    Top Cover Removed



    Rear of the PCB



    PCB Removed from Base



    64GB Memory module



    The Front USB ports and battery



    WIFI Chip



    Cooling Fan + Heatsink





    PCB With everything Removed





    Right lets get this review started on opening the box the first thing you will notice is its quite a big device with a matt black finish to it.

    The V1 plus is a all plastic square box with venterlation holes on the both sides.It has a aluminum heatsink & a mini fan Giving it a good chance to keep the unit cool BUT it should of came with some ear plugs too as its rather loude when it kicks in,Ok its not running all the time but when it is running Its a lot louder than the fans on my tower pc infact i can hear the fan over the tv even when im in the next room.Im doing some stress tests right now and it must be spining at 10 million RPM.

    I tried to measure the sound with a app



    On the first boot of the V1 Took me to the windows setup, language product key etc etc (No need to enter a windows key here) just skip it for now then you will find it gets fully activated after the setup is compleat.First thing i wanted to do was to get it fully upto date.I went to windows update center and that kept giving me a connection error,So i changed my tackticks and downloaded the windows 10 update assintant & 2 hours latter i now have the latest Windows Version 1703 Build 15063.540.




    The V1 is now showing around 39GB of free space in windows after all the latest updates.should.The main plus on the V1 is being able to pick wether to use the VGA or the HDMI output both work as they should.

    The V1 Plus has all the ports most people will need with the power button the top nice and easy to get to.



    What works

    64GB sd works
    128GB USB Stick
    Samsung 1TB unpowered HD works
    Tronsmart Mars G01 Gamepad works
    Logitech c270 webcam works
    Wd 320GB hard drive works

    Some tech stuff

    The boot time on the V1 is nice and fast at 20 seconds.

    Antutu






    CPU Z














    Aida64 GPUID



    Aida64 Cache & memory benchmark



    Aida64 GPGPU




    1 hour Stress test




    Crystal Diskmark




    WIFI







    Bios Backup

    https://mega.nz/#!oDpXnYLD!rOGrwFFVS...ZEI6WCecXIp0cU

    Double driver Backup

    https://mega.nz/#F!pS41BBBS!M7pxHvHgkfwM0kKt1cK6uA



    Video Review


    General Brand: Vorke
    Model: V1 Plus
    Quantity: 1 Piece
    Color: Black
    Hardware & OS Operating System: Windows10 home 64-bit, Supports WIN8.1/ubuntu15.10&16.04 Chrome OS
    CPU: Intel® Apollo Lake J3455(1.5-2.3Ghz)
    GPU: Intel® HD Graphics 500
    RAM: LPDDR3 4GB (1600MHz)
    ROM: 64GB mSATA SSD(Endless extension for SSD, 1TB extension for HDD, Support 2.5" SATA3 SSD)
    Sound Codec Chip: Realtek ALC269
    Communication Wifi Connectivity: Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 3165,802.11ac,2.4G/5G
    Ethernet: Gigabit LAN
    Bluetooth: 4.2
    Card Reader: Micro SD card slot(Realtek RTS5170)
    Media Video Supported: 3GP,AVI,H.264,MP4
    Audio Supported: AAC,ACC,MP3,OGG,WAV
    Picture Supported: BMP,GIF,JPEG,JPG,PNG
    Office Format: Excel,PPT,Word
    E-book Format: PDF,TXT
    Interface HDMI Port: Standard HDMI Male 2.0a,Support 4k@60Hz
    Wake On LAN: Yes
    Other Interfaces
    USB2.0 x 2
    USB3.0 x 2
    Headphone out&Mic-in x 1
    VGA x 1
    LAN 10M/100M/1000M x 1
    TYPEA HDMI x 1
    Power Button x 1
    DC-IN x 1
    Power Power: 12V//3A
    Skype: Supported
    Youtube: Supported
    Speaker: Supported
    MIC: Supported
    Dimensions&Weight Dimensions: 153.4*153.4*38mm/ 6.039*6.039*1.496inches
    Weight: 390g/ 13.75oz
    Package Contents 1 x MINI PC
    1 x Power adapter (A right AC Adapter will be sent as your shipping country)
    1 x Charging cable
    1 x User manual
    Basic unboxing Video

    Please consider making a Donation to freakTab

  • #2
    I know what you say about that fan.

    It's just so annoying and I could not put up with it, so mine went back for a refund.

    A shame really that such a simple design flaw should be so bad that it ultimately overshadows the rest of the functionality.

    I did find that it kicks in a lot too, which for me, indicates that other heat dissipation techniques are not as effective as they should otherwise be.
    MXIII-G II, Chuwi Hibox, Nvidia Shield, NUC6CAYH

    Comment


    • #3
      Yep the fan noise is so disappointing,

      You should not be able to hear a fan on any mini pc from another room,

      All I can think is the lab where this was built must be a very noisy place.

      It may sound strange but i was kinda of hoping I got a bad one but since you had the same issue they must all be like it.
      Please consider making a Donation to freakTab

      Comment


      • #4
        It's not as if silent fans have not been around for a while and don't add much to the cost of any small box such as this.

        Also had an ACEPC AK1 with overheating issues, especially when using the SSD expansion capability, so perhaps this is a contributory factor.
        MXIII-G II, Chuwi Hibox, Nvidia Shield, NUC6CAYH

        Comment


        • #5
          The fan is annoying, but it was an easy fix. The thermal solution between the heatsink and CPU is just a thermal pad, not nearly as efficient as good thermal compound. I tried to apply some MX-4 CPU thermal compound it's it's place and realized the heatsink standoffs were just a hair too tall for it to make contact. I pulled out the Dremel and grinded about 2mm of each standoff and boom, in business. Put on a dab of MX-4 and put it all back together. 2 days later and I haven't even heard the fan kick on one time. Just a good thermal connection between that rather large heatsink and the CPU is enough too cool a 10 watt TDP CPU passively.

          -RP

          Comment


          • #6
            Good to know...
            To the Dremel we must go....
            Thanks
            tЯeboЯ
            Please consider
            Donating to Freaktab

            Comment


            • #7
              One more thing, I am not sure how close the heatsink gets to the on board soldered components once it's trimmed down, it looked to me like it had clearance, but to be safe I cut a little corner of the SATA spare drive anti conducting sheet and covered the about 1" square area of components between the CPU and exhaust port. You will see what I mean. Better safe than cooked.

              Comment


              • #8
                I just did some 4 core benchmarks and stress tests to check the heat. With all cores going it never broke 61C. 70c is fan kick on, 105c is the ohh-shit point. So, nothing wrong with the huge heatsink, it's just the thermal pad. I don't think I'll ever hear the fan, unless the GPU really kicks up the heat, I did not run any stress tests on that. This is a living room Kodi, Dirac and Tidal machine for me. i added a USB Sound Blaster X-fi Pro, disabled the onboard sound in the BIOS and changed the C states to make sure it would turbo all 4 cores. Very solid little unit for the price, I'm quite impressed.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yes my review Back in June...never got to hot at all.......
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	image_24469.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	131.1 KB
ID:	669644
                  And the fan is no big deal here at all here....must been the British Summer...

                  tЯeboЯ
                  Please consider
                  Donating to Freaktab

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by almstsobur View Post
                    The fan is annoying, but it was an easy fix. The thermal solution between the heatsink and CPU is just a thermal pad, not nearly as efficient as good thermal compound. I tried to apply some MX-4 CPU thermal compound it's it's place and realized the heatsink standoffs were just a hair too tall for it to make contact. I pulled out the Dremel and grinded about 2mm of each standoff and boom, in business. Put on a dab of MX-4 and put it all back together. 2 days later and I haven't even heard the fan kick on one time. Just a good thermal connection between that rather large heatsink and the CPU is enough too cool a 10 watt TDP CPU passively.

                    -RP
                    Glad you found a solution.

                    Worth mailing Vorke to let them know so that they can consider a more efficient design process.
                    MXIII-G II, Chuwi Hibox, Nvidia Shield, NUC6CAYH

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by bluesmanuk View Post

                      Glad you found a solution.

                      Worth mailing Vorke to let them know so that they can consider a more efficient design process.
                      I'm guessing they are aware, I'm sure it's just a cost savings measure. Thermal pad is cheaper than paste, but with standoffs that don't actually reach the soldered in CPU you can't damage the board or CPU in the production process. No way to overtightened or flex anything. The cost of one CPU is likely a weeks salary for the poor b*****d who puts them together.
                      Last edited by blinkone; 09-11-2017, 12:05. Reason: Removed naughty word

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by almstsobur View Post
                        The fan is annoying, but it was an easy fix. The thermal solution between the heatsink and CPU is just a thermal pad, not nearly as efficient as good thermal compound. I tried to apply some MX-4 CPU thermal compound it's it's place and realized the heatsink standoffs were just a hair too tall for it to make contact. I pulled out the Dremel and grinded about 2mm of each standoff and boom, in business. Put on a dab of MX-4 and put it all back together. 2 days later and I haven't even heard the fan kick on one time. Just a good thermal connection between that rather large heatsink and the CPU is enough too cool a 10 watt TDP CPU passively.

                        -RP
                        Instead of grinding down (don't have a dremel) could I purchase a 2mm thick aluminum square? Then use paste on either side of it? Are the heat syncs aluminum? Would you suggest this as an alternative solution? Thank you for any info.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by SeekTruth View Post

                          Instead of grinding down (don't have a dremel) could I purchase a 2mm thick aluminum square? Then use paste on either side of it? Are the heat syncs aluminum? Would you suggest this as an alternative solution? Thank you for any info.
                          As long as you use something more or less designed to transfer heat, I.E. flat, straight, and put some thermal compound between the add-on and original, it should work. But the risers are just a light alloy, you could hand file or even wet sand with a heavy grit. Or, if you have the gonads; drill the riser pegs out and do your own screw setup. I think if you have some 200 grit or so sand paper, I would wet sand the riser pegs. Take a whole sheet on a flat surface and you can get them perfectly even by sliding the pegs on the sand paper instead of the paper on the pegs. Keep it wet, kinda messy.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by almstsobur View Post

                            As long as you use something more or less designed to transfer heat, I.E. flat, straight, and put some thermal compound between the add-on and original, it should work. But the risers are just a light alloy, you could hand file or even wet sand with a heavy grit. Or, if you have the gonads; drill the riser pegs out and do your own screw setup. I think if you have some 200 grit or so sand paper, I would wet sand the riser pegs. Take a whole sheet on a flat surface and you can get them perfectly even by sliding the pegs on the sand paper instead of the paper on the pegs. Keep it wet, kinda messy.
                            Thanks for the advice! - I would like to keep it as stock as possible (just in case). So for a flat square for heat transfer, I'm guessing copper or aluminum alloy? Should I be worried about it being too thin and melting/bending backwards towards the processor due to heat? Thanks again!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by SeekTruth View Post

                              Thanks for the advice! - I would like to keep it as stock as possible (just in case). So for a flat square for heat transfer, I'm guessing copper or aluminum alloy? Should I be worried about it being too thin and melting/bending backwards towards the processor due to heat? Thanks again!
                              I wouldn't worry about that, as long as you don't overtighten, just snug once contact is made. I would be more worried about the correct thickness. 2mm was just an after the fact, top of my head guess. It might be closer to 1mm. I'd get a good measurement, or buy a couple thicknesses. Copper would be the best heat transfer, but likely more expensive and since the original is aluminum, I don't think you will gain from copper.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X