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Vorke V1 Plus Review

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  • #16
    Originally posted by almstsobur View Post

    I wouldn't worry about that, as long as you don't overtighten, just snug once contact is made. I would be more worried about the correct thickness. 2mm was just an after the fact, top of my head guess. It might be closer to 1mm. I'd get a good measurement, or buy a couple thicknesses. Copper would be the best heat transfer, but likely more expensive and since the original is aluminum, I don't think you will gain from copper.
    Excellent. Will keep all advice in mind. Will post my results here. Cheers!

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    • #17
      Approximate Measurements of Heatsync and CPU

      - L x W -

      CPU/Package
      - 31mm x 24mm

      Black Rubber Pad that sits on CPU Die
      - about .4mm or .5mm thick
      - about .3mm when tightened

      Raised Aluminum Rectangle Part of Heatsync (Touches Black Pad)
      - 31mm x 24mm

      Heat Sync
      Inside Spokes/Risers - Narrowest Point - 41mm

      Heatsync Width
      - 48mm

      Screws that tighten heatsync to CPU
      - 4mm

      PCB (Circuit Board)
      - about 1.2mm

      ----- My Conclusions to replace Black Rubber Pad -------

      .5mm - Copper shim.

      Will also work with .3mm without issue (there was additional space when tightening screws).

      Before Mod:
      90C at Home passmark screen - 105FPS
      Fan at Max
      ------------------------------
      After Mod:
      60C at Home passmark screen - 100FPS
      What fan?

      Wow, what a difference!

      I have additional shims if anyone needs.
      Last edited by SeekTruth; 11-19-2017, 11:45. Reason: Possible danger issue with copper shim. If too big could short CPU package components.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by almstsobur View Post
        One more thing, I am not sure how close the heatsink gets to the on board soldered components once it's trimmed down, it looked to me like it had clearance, but to be safe I cut a little corner of the SATA spare drive anti conducting sheet and covered the about 1" square area of components between the CPU and exhaust port. You will see what I mean. Better safe than cooked.
        Are you referring to the little resistors around the Die? on the CPU Package? When I placed the copper shim, it was touching one of them. Should I worry about the CPU getting fried because of this? .... Had to file down the shim so it wasn't touching the raised areas on the package... Now it's safe.
        Last edited by SeekTruth; 11-07-2017, 17:57.

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        • #19
          Has anyone manage to extract line in/line out connections? I see a line in point on the silk screen, but have no idea if it is real. I'll need these for a RTL/SDR setup.
          Thanks..zim

          PS: I think I've got this solved using and old external USB sound card. I still may try testing that line in spot just for grins.
          Last edited by icaps3; 10-24-2017, 17:33.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by SeekTruth View Post
            Approximate Measurements of Heatsync and CPU

            - L x W -

            CPU/Package
            - 31mm x 24mm

            Black Rubber Pad that sits on CPU Die
            - about .4mm or .5mm thick
            - about .3mm when tightened

            Raised Aluminum Rectangle Part of Heatsync (Touches Black Pad)
            - 31mm x 24mm

            Heat Sync
            Inside Spokes/Risers - Narrowest Point - 41mm

            Heatsync Width
            - 48mm

            Screws that tighten heatsync to CPU
            - 4mm

            PCB (Circuit Board)
            - about 1.2mm

            ----- My Conclusions to replace Black Rubber Pad -------

            .5mm - 15mm x 15mm Copper shim. Thermal Paste on either side.

            Will also work with .3mm without issue (there was additional space when tightening screws).

            Before Mod:
            90C at Home passmark screen - 105FPS
            Fan at Max
            ------------------------------
            After Mod:
            60C at Home passmark screen - 100FPS
            What fan?

            Wow, what a difference!

            I have additional shims if anyone needs.
            Tried the Copper and it works very good. Temperature difference about 20 degrees Celsius.
            Thanks very much!!!

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by keup View Post

              Tried the Copper and it works very good. Temperature difference about 20 degrees Celsius.
              Thanks very much!!!
              You're welcome! But wasn't originally my idea. Just be wary of any copper touching the raised capacitors or whatever they are on the CPU package. Over time, it might cause conductivity possibly frying CPU.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by SeekTruth View Post

                You're welcome! But wasn't originally my idea. Just be wary of any copper touching the raised capacitors or whatever they are on the CPU package. Over time, it might cause conductivity possibly frying CPU.
                It seems to work until now ;-)

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by keup View Post

                  It seems to work until now ;-)
                  Indeed. I had same situation as I posted, then realized I needed to file it down cause it was hitting the other pieces. Easy to reopen and adjust. But yeah definitely cooler!

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by SeekTruth View Post

                    Indeed. I had same situation as I posted, then realized I needed to file it down cause it was hitting the other pieces. Easy to reopen and adjust. But yeah definitely cooler!
                    But what did you adjust? I placed it about in the middle and screwed it down. The copper didn't seem to make contact with the CPU. Afterwards I ran a stresstest for about ten minutes and it seems fine.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by keup View Post

                      But what did you adjust? I placed it about in the middle and screwed it down. The copper didn't seem to make contact with the CPU. Afterwards I ran a stresstest for about ten minutes and it seems fine.
                      On mine, the edges of the copper were touching the top capacitors of the CPU so it would need to be carefully shaved down (outside of the system). almstsobur, as shown previously in this thread didn't use copper, instead he filed down the heatsync risers, (from my understanding) then cut some of the SATA heat shield that is on the bottom of the unit, and cut it to shape around the die to protect the top capacitors.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I have also aplied the upgrade to the thermal compound.
                        But the fan starts always at 55 Degree (win10).
                        The dptf Bios setting is at 70 Degree.....

                        At Linux the fan always goes to full speed,....
                        The fan will not be detected! (pwmconfig)

                        Wheres my fault?
                        Last edited by mslogo; 01-02-2018, 05:57.

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